Six months after winning the LVMH Prize for Young Designers, Marine Serre debuted her highly anticipated Fall 2018 collection ‘Manic Soul Machine,’ at her first Paris Fashion Week runway show. The mounting pressure from the fashion industry to deliver a successful season moved the designer to step away from her design assistant role under Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga, making more time to boost the potential of her fledging label. These whirlwind career progressions influenced this new collection, mirroring Serre’s self-awareness and reflective prowess for fashion.
Manic Soul Machine stays true to Serre’s core aesthetics – form and function with athletic references and utilitarian urban wear – while calling on Swarovski crystals to bring sparkling movement and life to text and motifs on Lycra® bodysuits. Dégradé crystal effects appeared on sleeves and trousers, and bespoke crystal transfers spelling ‘Marine Serre’ and ‘Futurewear’ as well as her trademark crescent symbol rounded out the shimmering details.
Marine Serre commented: “This season is still a clash of techniques and references. I picked up a few things from daily life and fused them with futuristic references to reflect the hybrid editing of our contemporary reality. I incorporated Swarovski crystals through the decorative elements of gymnastic outfits. The focus is always on the pieces more than any narrative.”
Designer Christelle Kocher had artificial intelligence on the brain while concepting her Fall 2018 collection. Show notes placed around the Casino de Paris referenced these inspirations with quotes by fiction writers J.G. Ballard, the dystopian modernist, and Philip K. Dick, the science fiction writer whose books were brought to life in cult films like Blade Rubber and Minority Report. The potential and creativity of technology especially motivated Kocher, urging the designer to bring a poetic value to the deconstructed collection with feminine detailing and Swarovski crystal accents.
A gold loose-fit satin suit and a nude oversized jumper were elevated with clusters of sew-on crystals and Swarovski Crystal Pearls while a black leather skirt and sleeveless top were embellished with black applique flowers and Swarovski crystals. Adhering to the label’s couture-meets-streetwear aesthetic, a sheer black sleeveless top was draped in contrasting strands of pale gold Swarovski Crystal Pearls in a flawless display of Kocher’s expert craftsmanship.
The Théâtre des Champs-Élysées on the Avenue Montaigne played host to Y/Project’s Paris Fashion Week show, reflecting the opulence and historical references that influenced designer Glenn Martens’ Fall 2018 collection.
Models walked the deco locale in voluminous taffeta and fake fur accents followed by modern reworked denim, rib knits and thigh-high Ugg boots. Returning from previous seasons were Swarovski Crystal Pearl loop jewelry, sitting oversized on shoulders as they spiraled out from the ear or winding around arms with a luxurious sheen.
“For me, Swarovski crystal is a celebration of light and happiness, so it was easy for us to include crystals and pearls throughout this collection,” shared Martens.
Fancy crystals shone from stiletto sandals and buttons, while gold Swarovski Crystal Pearls were strung into belts through denim separates. Two dazzling looks brought a tease of burlesque with fancy crystal stones worked into intricate embroideries over sheer tops and tan trousers.
Closing out the crystallized collections for Fall 2018, Glenn Martens leaves us with a brilliant reminder that, “Although what we do it serious, we always want to have fun too – you really can’t be sad when you look at Swarovski crystals.”